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Saturday, July 7, 2012

Embracing the Abaya

It’s been more than four years now since I moved to Saudi Arabia. I must admit, I’ve never been a big fan of the abaya. My internal body thermostat always runs way too hot to start with, so wearing a black cloak in this brutal heat is like torture to me. In the summertime, there are days when I have taken up to 4 showers!


BEFORE:  Woven Abaya
I’ve decided that another reason I have disliked wearing the abaya is because I just didn’t like my abaya. Since I don’t work, I have only had one abaya at any given time.

When I first arrived, I had a hand-me-down abaya, which quickly started deteriorating after I washed it a few times. A new one that I had bought also wore out, so the past couple of years, I have worn a very thin lightweight woven fabric loose-fitting abaya.

Abayas made out of woven fabric are very hard to find. The most common ones that I have seen in Jeddah are some type of polyester blend, and they range from very thin fabric to quite heavy. There are also abayas made of silk, crepe, stretchy polyester, and many other fabrics. The styles, details, and trims are endless, what with crystals, beads, hand-painting, ribbons, and on and on. And I’m happy to report that colorful abayas, including prints, are becoming more and more common here in Jeddah.

AFTER:  Woven Abaya
The woven abaya that I had been wearing had been purchased on sale at the mall for 99 riyals, which is about $26 US. It was like a big loose tent and the very narrow sleeves only ran from right below my elbows to my wrists. I had cut off these tight fitting sleeves and replaced them with wider sleeves in a black eyelet fabric and also added big pockets of the same fabric. (NOTE: It is also very rare to find abayas with pockets, for some reason.) So I had worn this woven abaya constantly for the past two years. It wasn’t fancy or much to look at, and it was not very flattering as it was so big and loose, but the fabric was much cooler for me than most fabrics out there.

When I returned to Jeddah in January, I decided that I wanted to have abayas that I actually liked, instead of feeling like such a slob in mine.

I refashioned the woven abaya by again replacing the sleeves with new fabric, a thin satiny print.

I also made three large tucks at the shoulders, so that the armpits were no longer at my elbows.

I changed out the pockets with the new satiny fabric too and also added on to the length at the bottom with the same.

I feel like I have a new abaya, and I really like it now.

AFTER: Woven Abaya - Tucks at shoulder, new sleeves, and new pockets


Recycled Abaya - New Sleeves and Gold Trim
I had another abaya that I also refashioned - one that I never really wore because I just didn't like it.

I cut off the lower sleeves and added a turquoise blue Indian print ruffled sleeve.

This fabric came from an old skirt that I never wore but I loved the fabric.

I also added a shiny gold braid trim that looks like it has jewels in it.

I haven’t worn this one yet because it’s a little heavier, but I like it so much better than the way it was.

So this one too was recycled at a cost of just the gold trim, which was very inexpensive.

Recycled Abaya - Close-up of trim and sleeve fabric


Stretchy Purple and Pink Print Abaya
I have also gone out on shopping expeditions for new abayas with friends.

I ended up purchasing two.

This first one is a stretchy knit fabric with a pink and purple print over a black background.

It’s a simple style, but I love the colors and the print.

I have worn this one a lot already!

I paid 170 SR for this one, which is about $45 US.

Close-up of new stretchy Purple and Pink Print Abaya




New Abaya with velvet detail
The other new one that I purchased has panel details in a sheer fabric with a velvet pattern in it over a green satin which shows through.

It has this in the front where the abaya comes together, around the neck, and a wide panel of it all the way down the back.

This abaya has a checked trim added to it for extra pizzazz. I love it!

It’s very comfortable, looks nice, and makes me feel great when I wear it.

I am saving it for more special occasions, even though it’s not really glitzy.

This one cost 275 SR, which is about $73 US.

Close-up of detail on new abaya with sheer velvet fabric and trim



The last abaya I now own was given to me by a friend who was leaving the country. It is a heavier fabric but it is a beautiful shade of periwinkle. Since it was plain, I added a glittery trim down the front and down the sleeves. I haven’t worn it yet, but I just love the color.

Periwinkle Abaya with new trim


So now I suddenly have five abayas! And I like them all. It has helped tremendously with my attitude about the abaya. So even though I still feel hot all the time, at least I feel better about myself wearing them - and like Martha Stewart says, "It's a good thing!"

45 comments:

  1. Seems like with your sewing skills you could make your own abayas and have fabric choices. If fabric is sold. I like what you've done to your old abayas and really like the purple and black model. Do they have matching head scarves?

    Seems the coolest way to wear one of these would be with nothing on under. ;)

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    1. Hi Gaelyn - All abayas come with matching headscarves. A lot of times though I prefer to wear different scarves that I found that I found in several colors, are super soft, and have a really loose weave - they keep me a lot cooler. I have been known to wear shorty pajamas underneath the abaya, but most of the time I wear capris and a tank top. Recently I did try making a whole abaya, but I didn't have a pattern and it came out more like a bathrobe - so I am wearing it at home, not out!

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    2. Suze-- Love what you've done... what if you make a few headscarves out of all eyelet. I've always heard (especially living in cooler country) that keeping head covered is important to stay warm... so if you have breathable material on your head ??? Just a thought. Shari

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    3. Hi Shari - These loosely woven scarves that I found are very breathable. I have them in pink, turquoise, sage, and lavender!

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  2. I am loving the stylish abayas! When I was there, we were in Jubail, in the east, and I couldn't find non-black abayas, so I'm glad the color restrictions are getting more liberal (hah). Of course, it is miserably hot this time of year, though in Lincoln (Nebraska) today where it was 100 degrees, I felt a great deal of sympathy for the poor stupid men who have to run around in suits! The best part of the abaya: I didn't iron a darn thing when I was in KSA, and no one ever knew about the 15 pounds I put on from inactivity. But it is miserable to walk around in black polyester 8 months a year. Good luck to you.

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    1. I get so excited when I see all the abayas in lovely colors and prints now. I really had no interest in them before, but my attitude has certainly made an about face - now I want to go into all the abaya shops I see, and there are thousands of them!!! I agree that men's suits are torturous, especially the tight buttoned neck with a noose-like tie around it. Looks good but it's really ridiculous if you think about it. I'm all for comfort and having something tight around my neck isn't my idea of comfortable dress.

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  3. That picture of you in the abaya shows how much life and vibrance is suck out by the bag "awrah" bags.

    I find the abaya/niqab distasteful with a horrific bloody history to women which demeans and belittles women by calling the whole of a women an external sex organ.

    I find them repulsive.


    Quite frankly Susie you should be allowed to wear and do just about whatever you want as you are a vibrant, intelligent, adult human being who has an ability to soar when allowed to be just as I described you.

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    1. Hi Bigstick - Thank you! I also agree that I should be able to wear what I want, but that doesn't really matter here and I don't see it changing any time soon. I read yesterday in the papaer about how in the Emirates (where only 10% of the population is native Emeratis and the rest are foreign workers) there is a movement to have and enforce some type of dress code for women. It will be interesting to see what happens with this. http://hosted2.ap.org/APDEFAULT/cae69a7523db45408eeb2b3a98c0c9c5/Article_2012-07-06-Emirates-Too%20Much%20Skin/id-389f9f623d3148bda50bafd69e5ae1c9

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    2. Wow that offensive!! I'm a westerner, a Muslim, and I cover and prefer abayaat for comfort, ease of wear, simplicity and modesty. MAN...ur readin' wayyy too much into it. Covering modestly is a requirement of both Muslim men and women according to the faith and as a show of piety and religiosity. Your dont have to wear an abaya per say, but many Muslim women from around the world choose them for their beauty, simplicty and comfort! I lived in Saudi for a year and while there stocked up on them as the crepes they use in saudi for abayaat are far better than most of whats available online.

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    3. Umm:

      Well, many find the symbolism of the abaya offensive. Religiosity and modesty are just key words that are meant to control people, segregate them and it more than often promotes hate and violence particular toward women. Modesty is a word like slut or whore. It is used to control by means of initidation and humilation. It is a demeaning word with a demeaning intention.

      In addition, many women around the world are forced to wear the symbol of subjugation and oppression and it is used as a symbol in force to issue an understanding to women what they are deem to be an awrah (external sex organ). It is the ultimate insult to 1/2 the population.
      Religiosity is a hate dogma nothing more and has been one of the most repressive, violent, hateful ideology ever invented by mankind.

      The dresswear and what it stands for is offensive to many and to those who believe women to be worth far more than modesty (hate dogma/control word) as they consider the sum of a women to be superior to what manmade (religious) dogma has reduced them to, ie.( a sex object to which clothing has more meaning than there person.) Sad.

      Saying for today: God and faith don't need religion as they both stand on their own but religion needs both in order to do what it was created for and that is political oppression.

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  4. I agree with you whole-heartedly. I did a similar thing last year, purchasing several pretty abayas. In the summer, I wear them with a simple, sleeveless cotton dress underneath for comfort.

    I love your taste in embellishments. I'm going to try to find some trims to jazz up my abayas, too.

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    1. Thanks, Sally - I've been sewing since I was in middle school and I really enjoy reworking clothing. The selection of embellishments here is amazing, between the souks at Makaroona and Hindawiya - and the prices for trims and fabrics are quite reasonable.

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  5. Fascinating. You are so industrious and talented with needle and thread, Susie.
    No pockets? What's with that?

    Here we are still into basic black.

    I was thinking of buying a simple light-colored loose men's galabiya just to wear around the house in the hot summer.

    Good luck with the heat.

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    1. Hi Dina - I just don't understand why they don't have pockets on abayas - even hidden on the side seam would be good. The abaya is an outer garment and I really don't like carrying a purse. Men's thobes all have hidden side pockets, so I don't get it. I also have some cool men's galabiyas that I wear at home. They are comfortable, made of nice fabric, and aren't too froo-froo like some of the women's clothing I've seen.

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    2. Well good, glad I'm not the only one. If I get up the nerve to go bargain for a galabiya in the Old City, I'll send you a picture of me wearing it. :)
      Your earlier comment made me smile. I never thought about what is worn under the abaya.

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  6. Wow Susie, you could start a business.....they're really beautiful!

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    1. Hi Always - If I were younger and more ambitious, I might consider starting an abaya business. I like being creative and looking at all the fabrics and trims - the possibilities are endless!!!

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  7. Abayah's are not suppossed to draw attention to the person that's wearing them. All due respect, those look more like dressess, then abaya's, which in my opinion, take away the whole meaning of the abayah.

    but to each thier own.

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    1. Hi Hebah - I realize that Saudi women are raised to not draw attention to themselves - and in the black abayas and niqaab, they often just seem to fade into the background, which is exactly the effect they seem to be going for. I, on the other hand, was raised wearing all the colors of the rainbow and taught to adore color and patterns. While I am not trying to draw attention to myself, I do like to feel good about myself. I thought that the purpose of the abaya was to be properly covered according to Islamic ideology - and that there is really nothing wrong with wearing colors or patterns, as many women did back in the Prophet's day. No?

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    2. Hebah:

      Then for women who don't agree with the disrespectful and for many hate symbol -- abaya(your are nothing but a sex object who is treated as such and this cloth is your prison) maybe they should not be forced upon women who disagree with it. Women are capable of wearing a large range of clothing and still be well within the spectrum of respectable. What the hell is wrong with being recognized?

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    3. Hi, I n Islam women are respected than in the west women are used for model, for corporate profit.so there is no such thing as sex object in Islam. Its a protection from evil eyes what I see in west women n children are raped n killed.covering in black when going out, you can avoid bad attention.At home you can wear any colors n styles.
      Living in west we wear winter coats full length its protection from cold freezing weather.
      I also have nice abaya in black,about 15 of them which I wear to shopping, malls, no problem, so get over ur old thinking of women kept as sex object. where do you keep your money valuable? in purse hiding. so women are cherished n protected. we choose to wear.so open your eyes n learn real value of women.

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    4. Actually, Islamically women are allowed to wear colors and patterns, even outside; law here just enforces black abayas. Secondly many Saudis who go out of saudi do not even touch until their flight back.
      Secondly I dont beleive that modesty is just a word used for control, I mean how would you feel if you see your mom one day in shorts or revealing clothes? And what would you do if you see your daughter go out in immodest clothes-dont you think she would attract negative attention?
      Secondly, women aren't objects, but we all are naturally attracted to beautiful things. So instead of evaluating women on their intelligence and personality, people judge them based on looks. Now, consider one applying for a job or a study environment, how do people judge her at first? Unfortunately, always from her "beauty", which would by the unfair to the more qualified applicant, if any. Not only that it would also be unfair to the girl as she is not being treated as a professional.

      Do you know why in many conditions there are regulations of what a person should wear? Can you just imagine what would be thought of a teacher who one day arrives at school in a see-through shirt with a flirty mini-skirt ? Would you want that teacher to teach your child and tell me, would your child would at all be concentrating in class on the lecture?
      but a certain dress code is only set appropriate for the high character standards of of the person itself.
      And therefore being a Muslim women requires us to be of the highest moral character that one can be, so we wear clothes appropriate to that.

      Also, bigstick I think you think to harshly of us. We are nothing but human and do a lot by choice. There are many of us who are restricted but even more who do a lot of things by choice. I also am not a fan of abayas(its seriously the stupidest rule ever-dress coding a country), when I go to other countries I am wear maxis etc. Also I recommend that since you seem to think of us as a close minded society you should engage in conversation with one of us to understand more. That just might change your view.
      Ohhh and also there is a city in progress-kaec-king abdullah economic city, we arent required to wear abayas there . Yaayyy, right?

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  8. I thinking learning to love the abaya is half the battle one and I am glad that you have found a way to wear one(or five). Ordering online you can find abayas in many colors. If you check out www.sunnahstyles.com, you will find loads of reasonable shaylas(scarfs) that are various colors. I wear black mostly but when I do wear colored wraps, I go for the SS ones. They are loose weave and waaaay lighter than the saudi ones without being sheer. I have no idea what the material is. Just a thought as they have colors that would match your abayas. :)

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    1. Hi Umm Alhaarith - Thanks for the link. They have good prices and I love the colors they offer. And even some things on sale too! Thanks again!

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    2. Forgot to ask: What are the SS ones?

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    3. Susie, I've ordered a number of things from Sunnah Styles. I like their things, and the fabrics are better than much of what you often find in N. America (especially in colors!), but I find that the fabrics they use for the scarves and abayas to be too warm for summer in the Midwest. It's a polyester that does have a looser weave, but I don't find it to be all that breathable. The silk abaya I got from SS is more comfortable, but I think they've changed their silk recently and I don't know what the new fabric is like.

      In my experience, the best summer abaya fabrics are all black polyesters/poly blends made for the Saudi market. I have not found similarly light and breathable fabrics in colors used in Saudi, unfortunately. Perhaps you'll find some. For scarves, I prefer thin silk and loose weave cotton.

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  9. Asalam alaikom Susie
    I agree with Umm Alhaarith. I wore hijab before I became muslim and I said I would not wear Abaya/Jilbab until I was married. Then one day I was at a friends house and for some reason or other borrowed an Abaya. I LOVED IT! It was brown. I've worn abaya ever since. Then like yourself Susie, I make my own Abayas if I want a particular style and shape or colour or fabric. I also wear abayas with just a little embroidery and pick up the colour of the embroidery in my underscarf which can be seen on the forehead, and if possible I also like to match shoes and bag to the underscarf and embroidery as well. Then if I am attending something professionally over the agay I will wear a business jacket in the same colour as the embroidery with the matching headscarf, shoes and bag. Masha Allah I feel like a million dollars! Also I recycle my abayas and sometimes I put one that I have worn a lot away for a few years and then take it out again when I want a change. Another tip is to buy fabric dye in the colours you like, so that when they go out of fashion (and they always do for about 20 years)you can dye your clothes to suit your colour pallette. I have just translated what I learned from my Image Design Consultant from b4 my shahada to my muslim wardrobe. I know what colours bring light and highlight the colour of my eyes and minimize imperfections in my skin and I know those that make me look washed out an unattractive - which is what I want to achieve when I wear a completely black abaya, scarf, shoes and handbag. Also a tip for the larger ladies - the shayla that comes with the abaya can be worn in the Scottish manner - draped across the upper body over one shoulder and pinned at the opposite hip. Hope this is of intereset and helps some one,insha Allah

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    1. Hi Carima - Sounds like you have practically got dressing yourself down to a science! It would be too hot here to wear a business jacket over the abaya, but I have seen some women elsewhere wearing it that way and I like the look. Thanks!

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  10. Hi Suzie
    There is a salon in Jeddah, where they also make abaya's to your own requirements. Colours, silks etc beautiful. The place in called Nirvana in Al Hamrah. Let me know if you want tel number. She is a friend of mine -Razan, who owns it. So glad you are now enjoying the abaya. I must say...I did get to like mine but again it was because of the colours and embellishment. Although they are not so 'easy going' in Riyadh. Have fun. Annie

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    1. Hi Annie - Thanks for the info. Several friends have offered to take me to get a custom abaya too. One of these days... but right now I think I'm good owning five!

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  11. Dear Susie-My sincerest condolences on the passing of your mother. She sounds like both a wonderful woman, and the quintessential Mom. It is indeed difficult to be living abroad at such a time, and I am glad you will be attending the celebration of her life, along with your own children and family. Again, my condolences to you and your family.

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    1. Thank you, Chiara - I feel in my heart that she was ready to go, but it's just hard for the family to accept. It all happened so quickly and I certainly wasn't prepared or ready for it. Thank you again. It means a lot to me.

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  12. Agree, the pocket thing is really silly. Like who the hell decided for "abayas" to be always pocket-less. Stupid unspoken rules.
    I think you might wanna try the all-colored abaya. My colleague wears lavender and it is so soothing and refreshing.

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    1. I agree about the pockets. The abaya is an outer garment and should have pockets as far as I'm concerned.
      I can hardly wait until the weather is cool enough for me to wear the periwinkle colored abaya. I'm really looking forward to it.

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  13. hi susie of arabia-i really love your purple and pink abaya.i have one abaya with embroidery and beads on the sleeves.it's kinda pretty and from the uae.got it online.i had alot of work going on in my apartment for a long time and i wore it alot.with my hijab.i live in the usa but i have been covering for more than 30 years and wearing hijab full time,for more than 2 and half years.it's been challenging.no one i know does it and not many people in my religion does ether.i have been married to 2 muslims before,with 2 children.one is out on his own and another(a girl) will be in a few years.so,lately i have been thinking,alot about not wearing hijab since i live in usa.it is hard.sometimes it is like a wall between me and others.and i get tired of always standing out and being different.but now i feel so naked without it!lol.i'm still praying and thinking abut it.

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    1. Hi Princess Tamina - I understand the conflicted feelings you have and I hope that you arrive at a decision that will bring you peace of mind. Hugs!

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  14. Is there any fit suit inside abaya and just a sheer top that can cover the body to make the dress so light? I am reading a lot of how foreign women cope with the very conservative culture in Saudi because in maybe four months from now I am moving there. So I am thinking now what to bring there instead my way of wearing clothes here in the Philippines..

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    1. Hi Tessa - You can wear whatever you want underneath the abaya, so what I have been wearing underneath is mostly a lightweight tank top and capris. But I have found that it can be a problem because sometimes we will wind up going to visit family, which I didn't know about ahead of time. Usually when we visit family, I will be able to take off my abaya during the visit, but I don't feel comfortable wearing just a tank top in front of others, not even other women. So at these times I must stay in my abaya. You can wear whatever you wish when you are at home, and what you choose to wear underneath your abaya is totally your call.

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  15. Hi Susie, I am moving to Jeddah next month and have to go Abaya shopping so your blog is very interesting. I have heard that you do not have to cover your head in Jeddah, is that true? I was wondering about buying something called a Chashwa that has a 'hood' attached so I could whip it over my head if needs be, what do you think?
    Any help or advice will be appreciated!

    Rachel

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    1. Hi Rachel - Many Western women do not cover their hair here in Jeddah, however one should always have a scarf handy, just in case. The religious police are not supposed to bother non-Muslim women, but they still have been known to. I would definitely recommend waiting until you arrive here to purchase an abaya. If you just wear modest loose fitting clothing that covers all but your hands and face, you will be okay leaving the airport. You can buy abayas almost anywhere here - my favorite places to shop for abayas are Al Shatee Souk and Makarona Souk. They are both well known. You will get a much better deal if you wait to buy one here, plus you will be amazed at the selection.

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  16. I have to say that the abaya is really quite nice and can be made in a fashionable way. The colors and design are beautiful and you seemed to have found some on your adventure.

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  17. hello susie. i love to read your this informative blog. susie i got married n my husband is working in KSA but i dont like Black color n also i dont like to wear abaya. i m muslim n i m from Pakistan but i worked n stayed in lebanon so now i m use to of wearing colorfull n western outfits but bcoz very soon i will be in jeddah so i wanted to know can i wear different color abaya or its very necessary to wear only black. can i wear bright colors like light blue n pink please tell me...

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    1. Hi Anon - Colorful abayas are getting to be more accepted in Jeddah, although most Saudi women still seem to prefer to wear basic black. The expat women are more daring with colors.

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  18. God made men and women each unique. Putting on a plain, black abaya to blend into the crowd somehow seems like covering up the beauty that God has given every living creature and thing. I am all for modesty but I don't completely cover myself to the detriment of my health (developing heat stroke, increasing my heart rate to dangerous levels, etc). I believe BALANCE, as in all things, is the key. I believe that the black abaya is just overkill, just as the Jews created the "fence laws" to ensure that people wouldn't sin! Those fence laws grew into more fence laws, and even more fence laws to keep the sheep "from straying" and falling into sin. Yeshua (Jesus) came along and told the religious leaders of His time that man's attempt to "improve" on God's laws only ended up corrupting things, and ended up oppressing the people instead with heavy burdens to bear and unrealistic rites to follow - which even the rulers weren't able to keep! It seems that Islam is no different.

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  19. I just liked the way you have put soul to those old abayas. I liked it so much and will try it soon.

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