Monday, April 15, 2013

The Art of Silk Painting in Jeddah



This morning I attempted something new – the art of silk painting!   

I enrolled in a private class here in Jeddah given by a lovely lady named Q.   

Q has been doing silk painting since she was a teen.  

My first attempt at silk painting - by Susie of Arabia
I opted to draw my fish design freehand.

Silk painting by Farnaz
There were floral guides available that the other women used. 

Silk painting by Fariha
We learned a bit about the history of silk painting, tools and materials required, and then each of us made a hands on project that we took home with us, along with supplies provided by Q.  
Silk painting by Kathy
There were five students altogether and we had a great time.  The two hour class turned into three!
Silk painting by Ayesha
If you are interested in signing up for Q’s classes, check out her Facebook page.   These classes are for women only. 

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Fakieh Aquarium




Fakieh Aquarium is Jeddah's latest family entertainment facility and the first of its kind within the kingdom of Saudi Arabia.  It is absolutely beautiful, kept immaculately clean, and promises to be an outing for the family that is educational as well as fun.  

The aquarium opened in January to overwhelming crowds.  Located near Sari Street on Jeddah's Corniche, which runs north and south along the Red Sea coastline, the aquarium will eventually be home to more than 7000 different types of marine life, from sharks to dolphins to seals and  jellyfish.   The first thing one sees when approaching the facility from the north is the gorgeous colorful tile mosaic depicting underwater sea life on the side of the building.   

The viewing tanks are large and spectacular, furnished with mangroves and coral reefs native to the area.  The walk through tunnel tank is particularly outstanding.  It reminded me very much of the many times I have been snorkeling in the Red Sea.  I even saw some species that I’ve never seen while snorkeling.  Sadly many Saudis, in particular females, are never taught how to swim so they have never been able to snorkel and experience the wondrous beauty of the Red Sea.  Fakieh Aquarium gives them the opportunity to see the amazing sea life firsthand that had previously been outside their realm of possibilities.

We also took in the Dolphin Show while we were there.  It is performed four times daily.   For a school day, there was a fairly good crowd at the 1pm showing.   A restaurant on site is still under construction and will hopefully open in the near future.  


Admission tickets cost 50 riyals per person, and the Dolphin Show is another 50 riyals.  Children under 2 are admitted for free.  For one person, the price isn’t bad, but for large families, a trip to the aquarium can seem rather costly.  Occasionally a discounted rate of 30 riyals is offered on Fridays through Fakieh Aquarium's Facebook page.  Hours of operation are from 11am to 11pm Saturday through Thursday.  Friday hours are 1:30pm to 11pm.

I was a little miffed at the products for sale in the aquarium’s gift shop.  Most of them were just toys that can be bought anywhere else and didn’t really pertain at all to sea life.  I was particularly surprised to see the pillows bearing the image of a scantily clad Betty Boop on sale in the aquarium gift shop.  Seriously?  

Overall Fakieh Aquarium is impressive and I must commend them for a job well done.  The sea creatures appear well cared for, the staff is knowledgeable and friendly, and the facility itself is gorgeous. 


I hope you enjoy the above slideshow of my visit.  To see more photos taken by other visitors to the aquarium, please CLICK HERE.  

Enjoy this Saudi Gazette article:  Explore the wonders of the sea world at Fakieh Aquarium


Monday, April 8, 2013

A Salute to the Future of Saudi Arabia

Once in a while I am given the opportunity to experience some pretty amazing things here in Jeddah .  When I was invited to be a judge for the senior girls’ graduation projects at Dar Al Fikr School, I had no idea how captivated I would be or how much I would genuinely enjoy myself.  It was such an inspiring and gratifying experience for me to see these talented young women with such poise, passion, determination, direction, and creativity.  I went to the school on two separate days and saw five girls’ presentations each day.   Their drive and motivation was mind blowing.  

This year marked the 12th annual senior graduation projects at Dar Al Fikr.  Students began thinking of ideas for their projects long before their senior year began.  Progress was checked along the way with deadlines to be met, corrections made, and guidance offered.   Girls were given the choice of making their presentations in either English or Arabic, whichever they were most comfortable with.  Of course I was there on days when presentations were made in English.  

Each girl took to the stage individually and made her presentation, describing how and why she chose her project, as well as obstacles she faced in accomplishing her goals and giving thanks and credit to those who inspired, assisted, and guided her.   Some presentations included photos or other visual items such as their products, samples of their work, and Power Point presentations.  Many students even enlisted the assistance of their fellow classmates to help with demonstrations.

The projects themselves varied widely in their themes and focus.   “SOS - Save our Smiles” was the name of Alanoud’s senior project.  Spurred on by the thought that Saudis don’t seem to smile enough, Alanoud organized not one, not two, but THREE events which focused on getting people to smile.  Not only that, she also coordinated her efforts with Destination Jeddah magazine, writing several articles about her idea and advertising her events in the process.  
One young woman named Lillian created her own line of jewelry which reflected her Saudi heritage and culture.  She worked with a local jeweler every step of the process and the results were magnificent.    

Lama created a whole line of innovative Saudi souvenirs and called it "A Piece of the Kingdom."  Surprisingly, souvenirs are quite difficult to find here in Jeddah, so there is a genuine need for this type of industry.  One of my favorites of Lama’s line combined the red and white checked man’s scarf with the embroidered cap worn under the scarf to make beautiful zippered bags. 
Madawi, another artistic and talented senior, painstakingly glued tiny beads onto selected areas of large black and white photos of the architecture of Makkah, creating a brilliant effect of beauty.  


Another inventive girl named Loulwah organized and conducted a spelling bee for elementary students from several local schools.  Spelling bees are not generally commonplace here in Saudi Arabia.  

Ghada, a senior with a special interest in medicine, blew me away with her senior project:  a medical game she invented and called “I’m No Doctor.”  She created a game board, game questions and rules in the hopes of empowering people with general knowledge about their own health.  
Raghad’s love for Japanese culture and language paved her path for her graduation project.  She created a guidebook and dictionary for fellow lovers of Japanese culture.   

Perhaps the most thoughtful and far reaching effort was put forth by Rola, a senior who wanted to do something that would benefit the lives of orphans in Jeddah.  Rola undertook a charitable project to transform an entire wing, including bedrooms and living space, of a local orphanage into a comfortable homey place for the orphanage’s youngest inhabitants, ranging from newborn to five years old.  You can read about her project in this Saudi Gazette article. 

Senior girl Ayah combined her passions for photography and history and went down to Al Balad, the old historic part of Jeddah, taking photos of the area.  She photo shopped them and presented her charming and lovely photos in an artful display.  




I wish I could have attended all of the days there were presentations that week.  Other projects included things like gourmet cooking, cake design, furniture design, poetry, painting, a historical novel about the life of one girl's grandfather, and several more creative ideas.

The judges’ panel was made up of school administrators, business women, former Dar Al Fikr students, and others.   After each girl’s presentation, the judges were allowed to make comments and ask questions.  Being able to think on their feet by answering the judges' questions was also considered in each girl's score.

I would like to thank Mrs. Baker for inviting me to be a judge at this amazing event.  It was truly an honor.  I cannot say enough how greatly impressed I was by these young women.  They are the future of Saudi Arabia - and that future is looking pretty darn bright.

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Saudi Women: Changing Reality, Making History



Assumptions are made about Saudi women all the time - faceless, nameless women hidden away by their own society.  The main reason for these suppositions is based solely on their seeming invisibility and nonexistence due to their homogenous veiled clothing.  But in the five short years (or long, depending on how you look at it) since I moved to Saudi Arabia, I have seen changes and accomplishments achieved by Saudi women at an accelerating warp speed that I could have never imagined…     
  
For example, last summer a group of 11 Saudi women reached the base camp of Mount Everest in an effort to raise awareness for breast cancer.  Their journey was even more remarkable for the fact that they were the first Saudi women ever to climb the world’s highest mountain and to accomplish such an arduous feat.   Leading the expedition was HRH Princess Reema Bandar Al Saud, a motivated and driven modern Saudi woman who supports many charitable causes, chief among them being breast cancer research and awareness.  

Team of Saudi women who climbed Mt. Everest in 2012

Politically there have been some sweeping and historic changes for women in KSA.  For the first time ever, thirty Saudi women were recently sworn in to the Shura Council, the prestigious but virtually powerless consulting advisory board to the king.   Women have also been given the green light to vote in elections in the year 2015. 

When I first moved to KSA in 2007, the only fields women were allowed to work in were education and medicine.  This meant that women were put in the demeaning and uncomfortable position of having to purchase intimate apparel, cosmetics, and abayas from salesmen.   Reem Asaad, a successful Saudi financier, wife and mother, conceived of and spearheaded an effective three year long campaign which made the King himself sit up and take notice, with the end result changing the face of retail establishments in Saudi Arabia and upping the number of women in the work force by leaps and bounds.   

Saudi women's rights activist Reem Asaad

In the 2012 Olympics, two Saudi women made history by becoming the first ever female athletes to compete representing Saudi Arabia.  Although the circumstances surrounding their involvement in the Olympics bordered on extortion - KSA was forced to cave in to pressure by the Olympic Committee’s very real threat of disallowing the kingdom’s male athletes if females were not allowed to participate    (heaven forbid if Saudi men were deprived from competing!) -  these two token Saudi women definitely created the most buzz and attracted the most attention of any athletes at the Olympics.  


Saudi female athletes at the 2012 Olympics

Another Saudi woman made pioneering history this past year when she became the first Saudi filmmaker to produce a feature movie filmed wholly within Saudi Arabia.  Haifaa Al Mansour’s film Wadjda has been warmly received by audiences around the world and tells the tale of a young girl who has a simple but forbidden dream - owning and riding her own bicycle - and how she courageously stands up for herself, and in effect, for oppressed females everywhere.  Director Al Mansour met with challenges and difficulties while filming the movie, resorting to directing her crew by walkie-talkie from inside a nearby van out of fear that there would be problems if she were seen giving directions to the male members of her crew in public.    


Saudi filmmaker Haifaa Al Mansour

Okay, so women are still not permitted to drive yet in the kingdom, but I do feel that progress is being made in this area.  From all appearances, measures are being taken in preparation for women driving in Saudi Arabia to become a reality.  The Shura Council has agreed to take the matter of women driving under advisement.   Manal Al Sharif garnered worldwide attention and became the face of the women’s driving issue when in 2011 she was jailed for ten days for daring to drive on the streets of Saudi Arabia.  She has since received numerous honors and awards from organizations around the world.  

Saudi women's right activist Manal Al Sharif

So next time you think Saudi women are oppressed, think again.  

I’ll end this post with a popular anecdote about Bill Gates giving a speech in Saudi Arabia to an audience that was segregated by gender – men on one side and women veiled in black on the other side of a separating partition.  After Mr. Gates spoke, there was a question and answer period.  Someone asked if Gates thought it was realistic for Saudi Arabia to aspire to being one of the Top 10 countries in the world in technology by 2010.  “Well, if you’re not fully utilizing half the talent in the country,” Gates said, “you’re not going to get too close to the Top 10.” 

And how did the audience react?   “Well, one side of the room loved it,” quipped Gates.

Sunday, March 17, 2013

UPDATE: Where is Khaled?

Almost two years ago in the midst of the Arab Spring, I posted a video of a Saudi man named Khaled.  He had shown up for a planned protest on the streets of Riyadh - but he was the only one. Khaled spoke to a BBC News crew that was there waiting for anything to happen that day, amidst the muscle of an overwhelming police presence. CLICK HERE for my original post about what happened, along with the video of Khaled speaking.

Khaled Al-Johani disappeared shortly after he spoke on tape to the journalists. News reports labeled Khaled “the bravest man in Saudi Arabia.”  For almost one year he languished in a Saudi prison, deprived of access to legal representation, held without charges, and denied a speedy trial. In February 2012 in a court established to handle terrorism cases, he was finally charged with "support of demonstrations, presence at the location of a demonstration, and communications with the foreign media in a manner that harmed the reputation of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia."

It appears as though Khaled was temporarily released from prison and was able to spend four months with his family – before he learned the verdict in his case and his fate: his sentence is eighteen months in prison.

Saudi human rights activist Abdullah al-Hamid, who himself has just been recently sentenced to a five year prison term for voicing his political opinions openly, tweeted: “The sentence on Khaled al-Johani to a year and a half in prison is an announcement to the whole world that the Saudi judiciary is a tool to suppress human rights. This is [the result of] secret trials.”

Sadly, Saudi Arabia continues its reputation as one of the worst abusers of human rights in the world.

Additional reading:

Susie's Big Adventure "The Bravest Man in Saudi Arabia"

Global Voices Online:  Lone Saudi protester sentenced to 18 months in prison

Khaled al-Johani (Wikipedia)